How to prevent camellia scale insects

Q: How do scale insects infest camellia plants?

A: Several common types of scale insects commonly affect camellias, including the red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, scaly shield scale, and brown tea scale. Each species has distinct physical characteristics and life cycles that influence how they impact the plant.

The red wax scale is a female insect with a thick, waxy shell that starts off rose-red and turns purple over time. It measures about 3 to 4 mm in diameter, with a central umbilicus and four white lines around the edge. This species completes one generation per year, with peak activity occurring from mid-May to mid-June when young nymphs cause damage to new shoots.

The cottony cushion scale has a red-orange, oval-shaped female, measuring 5 to 7 mm long. Its back is raised, covered in dense black hairs, and it secretes white waxy material. During egg-laying, it produces white oocysts on its abdomen, and the body has 14 to 16 ridges. This species can have two to four generations per year, with adults surviving through winter. The most severe infestations occur between April and June.

The scaly shield scale has a female shell that is 1.5 to 2 mm long, gray or brown in color, with a yellow or brown edge. Its shape resembles an oyster shell, hence the name. Males are smaller, narrow, and grayish-white. This species typically has two to three generations annually, with nymphs appearing in mid-May, mid-July, late August, and late September.

The brown tea scale is round, with a diameter of 1 to 2 mm. It is dark purple or brown, with a thick, waxy coating. The center is slightly raised, and the edges slope inward. There are two small points near the center, which may appear golden or reddish-brown. Males have an oblong or oval shell with a point at one end. Most of the life cycle occurs in the second-instar nymph stage during winter.

Scale insects usually cluster on twigs and leaves, often feeding on the underside of leaves. They use their piercing-sucking mouthparts to extract sap from the stems and leaves, leading to yellowing, premature leaf drop, and even plant death in severe cases. Their excretions are sugary and can lead to sooty mold, further harming the plant’s health. These pests thrive in hot, humid conditions with poor air circulation.

Control Methods:

1. If only a few infested areas are found, gently brush them off with a soft brush or use transparent tape to remove them manually.

2. In winter, apply a 0.5-degree lime sulfur or turpentine mixture to kill overwintering nymphs.

3. During the early stages of hatching, before the shells harden, spray with 40% omethoate EC diluted 1000 times, 2.5% deltamethrin EC diluted 2500 times, or 80% dichlorvos EC diluted 1000 times for effective control.

4. Once the shells form, use 40% fenpropathrin EC diluted 1500 times due to its strong penetration ability. Alternatively, during the early stages, apply 25% buprofezin (containing thiazine ketone) wettable powder at 1500–2000 times dilution, and reapply after 15 days if necessary.

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