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Japanese Yellow Potato Cultivation Technology
Japanese yellow and black potatoes are two new sweet potato varieties that have gained popularity in recent years. Japanese yellow potatoes feature a yellow skin with deep orange flesh, smooth texture, and a sweet, sandy flavor. Their thin skin easily separates when cooked, making them ideal for various culinary uses. On the other hand, Japanese black potatoes boast a nearly black exterior with vibrant red and purple flesh, visually striking and more colorful than the famous "heart of the United States" radish. When cooked, they retain their beautiful color and offer a delicious taste. Rich in essential nutrients like selenium and iodine, these varieties are nutritionally superior to many traditional sweet potatoes.
Both varieties are highly favored by urban and rural consumers as well as restaurants, and their market and seed prices remain high. To meet the growing demand and diversify the range of available seedlings, this article outlines an efficient technique for rapid propagation using single-leaf sections.
Each leaf segment of the sweet potato vine contains one axillary bud and two root primordia. Under optimal conditions, it is possible to produce up to 1,000 sweet potato seedlings from a single leaf section, requiring only 2–3 kilograms of seed potatoes. This method is both cost-effective and time-efficient, making it suitable for small-scale growers and commercial producers alike.
1. Select beds with well-drained, fertile soil that is loose and dry. The bed should be 1.3 meters wide, with no strict limit on length. It is recommended to orient the bed north-south for better sunlight exposure. For every 0.1 mu (approximately 667 square meters) of bed area, incorporate 250 kg of composted soil, 5 kg of ammonium bicarbonate, and 10 kg of phosphate fertilizer. After plowing, build a raised border around the bed to facilitate watering and fertilization.
2. Soak the seed potatoes in a 50% carbendazim solution diluted at 300 times for 5–8 minutes. Remove them and allow them to dry before planting.
3. Plant the seedlings in early March. Before planting, sort the seedlings carefully, ensuring the shoots face north and are placed about 2 cm above the bed surface. After draining the water, cover the seedlings with a thin layer of fine soil, then place a plastic sheet over the bed and add an arched plastic cover. Double-layer coverage helps maintain warmth and moisture, promoting healthy growth.
4. Once the seedlings reach about 20 cm in height, they can be cut. For thick vines, each leaf section should be cut, leaving 0.8 cm above and 3 cm below the cut. For shorter or thinner vines, allow them to continue growing on the bed. Avoid watering the cut seedlings immediately after cutting to prevent damage to the wounds. Two to three days later, apply 25 grams of urea to the bed and water it in, then re-cover the bed with plastic to stimulate the growth of the next batch of seedlings.
5. After transplanting, insert the cut leaf sections into the soil approximately 0.7 cm deep, spacing them 15 cm apart with 3–4 cm between rows. Water the bed thoroughly and cover it with a frame and plastic film to maintain humidity and warmth.
6. After planting, monitor the temperature and moisture levels in the nursery bed. Maintain a temperature of around 25°C during the initial root development phase, which typically occurs within 7–10 days. Avoid excessive heat, which could harm the young plants. Once roots begin to appear (after about 10 days), axillary buds will start to grow. At this stage, apply a small amount of fertilizer to support seedling development. When the seedlings reach about 18 cm in height, follow the same procedure to plant the second batch of single-leaf sections, continuing the cycle of propagation.