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High quality and high yield cultivation techniques of banana plantlets
Banana test-tube seedlings offer several advantages, such as being disease-free, growing uniformly, and being easy to transport, which makes them ideal for large-scale propagation. The key techniques for achieving high-quality and high-yield banana cultivation are outlined below:
First, soil preparation is crucial. Test-tube seedlings are sensitive during the initial stage, so it's important not to plant them too deep. A sufficient amount of soil should be left after planting to support their growth. In areas like Shuitian Tea Garden, the 3-level sorghum method is recommended, with the planting hole slightly higher than the 10–15 cm mark. As the seedling grows, the soil from the cocoon should be carefully placed into the planting hole to prevent exposure. During field preparation, shallow ditches can be dug temporarily, but later, deeper ditches should be created, and the soil should be brought up to the base of the plants.
Second, planting timing is important. Seedlings with 6–8 leaves are ready for planting, and spring is generally the best season. Spring planting should occur when the weather is warm and stable, while summer and autumn plantings are better done in the afternoon. In winter, especially in colder banana-growing regions, planting is often done either in winter or early spring. Before planting, it’s advisable to acclimate the seedlings to the local climate. When handling the seedling bags, care must be taken not to loosen the soil inside, as this could reduce survival rates and slow down recovery.
Third, fertilization plays a vital role. Initially, test-tube seedlings are not very nutrient-rich, so deep application of basal fertilizer is essential to avoid direct contact between the roots and the topsoil. Farmyard manure should be well-composted and applied at least 30 cm deep or 60–80 cm away from the planting site. After rain, when new leaves appear, a top-dressing can be applied. For the first two months after planting, during dry periods, a 0.1%–0.2% compound fertilizer or potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution (1–2 kg per liter) can be used. Diluted manure is also effective. On rainy days, 1.0 g of urea or compound fertilizer can be sprinkled 15–20 cm away from the seedlings. Fertilizing every 7–10 days is recommended, and foliar sprays like potassium dihydrogen phosphate, organic fertilizer solutions, or Green Wang series products can also be used. Mid-term fertilization should be more generous—once every 15–20 days, and once every 25–30 days later. For spring-planted seedlings, extra attention must be given to both water and fertilizer management to ensure proper bud development during winter.
Fourth, water management is critical. In the early stages, test-tube seedlings require less water, but the soil must remain moist—not too dry. During hot periods, the planting holes can be covered to retain moisture. In the rainy season, drainage is essential. If the soil is heavy, the planting holes should be raised by 5–10 cm, about 30–40 cm away from the planting area, to prevent waterlogging and root rot.
Fifth, pest control is necessary. Test-tube seedlings are vulnerable to pests like Spodoptera larvae. Regular monitoring and timely treatment are required. During the rainy season, older banana fields may experience leaf spot diseases due to the proximity of the leaves to the ground. Spraying should be done regularly to prevent this.
Sixth, variant removal is an important step. Variants such as white stripe leaves, mosaic patterns, malformed leaves, Qiaohua seedlings, or extra-dwarf types are easier to spot and remove. However, there are two more subtle variants that may not be immediately noticeable. These typically become visible 2–4 months after planting, when the plant has 15–20 leaves. One type is a dwarf variety, characterized by short, thick stems, broad leaves, dark green color, and a tight pseudo-stem. The other is a mosaic-leaf variant, marked by upright leaves, curled margins, irregular black or waxy spots, and abnormal leaf arrangement. Although these variants can still produce buds and fruit, their yield and quality are poor, making them economically unviable. They should be removed as soon as possible to avoid affecting the main crop.
Seventh, early removal of in vitro buds is essential. These buds tend to emerge early and in large numbers. Due to the delayed identification of buds, they should be removed promptly once they reach 15–30 cm in length. This can be done using a sharp eschar or sickle. Alternatively, bud cutting and removal methods can also be employed to manage the number of buds effectively.